This dress was inspired by a number of old photographs of 1860s dresses. Not sure how authentic the alterations would be.

Each step that involves sewing seams that are not done on the mock-up will have a note at the bottom. The top button hole will be horizontal while the others will be vertical.

I've always wanted to make a historical dress, now I know where to start! If you're wearing your corset as a foundation piece, the weather may not permit an additional layer between it and your skin. I was wondering (because I can barely afford one corset for training at the moment, let alone another for changing them out) if I wear something under my corset, and let it air out every night, will I be able to wear it every day for 12 hour periods at a time? Click near the bottom of the image. Hanging seems too likely to distort the fit and undo some of the shaping a corset gets from breaking in. Go through all steps (2-12) again, but this time sew with the real fabric and matching thread, completing all steps carefully. To keep laces secure and out of the way, tuck the ends into the bottom of your corset. If you would like to make sure that it's sitting exactly the same way it will when you sew the final bodice, sew on the button lining, the yoke and buttons and stitch the button holes (see the next two steps for instructions). Start by cutting out the sleeve piece and the cuff piece. Fold under cuff edge (to form a hem) in line with seam and hand stitch to finish the cuff off, making sure all the seams are hidden inside the cuff. It's always easier to cut them shorter, though, so it's safer to err on the side of “too long,” otherwise it may become difficult to put your corset on. Measure the front, sides and back. There are 11 measurements needed to draft the Bodice Block Back.

This Dagger is a companion to the Faith keeper Sword, the high-carbon steel diamond cross-section blade on this dagger has a pierced cross of the Knights Templar at its ricasso. There are 12 measurements needed to draft the Bodice Front. Drape it over a hanger or the back of a chair. I used four rectangular panels the width of the fabric (110 cm) for the skirt, but if you aren't going to wear a crinoline underneath, there is no need to make it that full.

I used a pen instead of chalk to mark the dots so they wouldn't rub off as I worked around the whole skirt. Zigzag stitch (or overlock) the two sides of the sleeve then sew up the side of the sleeve (right sides together), but stop when you reach about 7 cm from the bottom.

They do take much more detailed measurements of the people who use the machine, and sell this on to the Fashion Industry.

This is VERY important. Pin the facing onto the bodice (right sides together), then sew around the neckline.

(Make sure the waistband is also folded up behind the bodice piece so that you will not see the seam you are about to sew from the right side of the dress.).

Line up the bodice to the skirt (right sides together) and pull the cords in the cartridge pleating such that the skirt fits the bottom edge of the bodice.

Do you maybe have your dimensions on your patterns at all? The bottom of the waist band should be open.